Tips8：Getting there & away

Travel documents
Tickets
The cheapest tickets to Hong Kong and China can often be found either online or in discount agencies in Chinatowns around the world. Other budget and student travel agents offer cheap tickets, but the real bargains are with agents that deal with the Chinese who regularly return home (travelling at festival times such as the Chinese New Year will be more expensive). Firms such as STA Travel (www.statravel.com) with offices worldwide also offer competitive prices to most destinations. The cheapest flights to China are with airlines requiring a stopover at the home airport, such as with Air France to Běijīng via Paris or Malaysian Airlines to Běijīng via Kuala Lumpur. Air fares to China peak between June and September.

An increasing number of airlines fly to China, with Air China and China Eastern offering some of the cheapest fares. The cheapest available airline ticket is called an APEX (Advance Purchase Excursion) ticket, although this type of ticket includes expensive penalties for cancellation and changing dates of travel. Tickets listed in this section are quoted by airline offices and you will be able to find cheaper rates through travel agencies.



Discounted air-courier tickets are a cheap possibility, but they carry restrictions. As a courier, you transport documents or freight internationally and see it through customs. You usually have to sacrifice your baggage and take carry-on luggage. Generally trips are on fixed, round-trip tickets and offer an inflexible period in the destination country. For more information, check out organisations such as the Courier Association (www.aircourier.org) or the International Association of Air Travel Couriers (IAATC; www.courier.org).

Tickets
In Běijīng, tickets can be conveniently purchased from CITS (Zhōngguó Guójì Lǚxíngshè; 010-6512 0507) in the Beijing International Hotel (Běijīng Guójì Fàndiàn; 9 Jianguomen Neidajie). Abroad, tickets can be arranged through one of the following agencies.

Intourist Travel (www.intourist.com) has branches in the UK, USA, Canada, Finland and Poland, and offers a range of Trans-Manchurian and Trans-Mongolian tours and packages, including flights to and from Moscow, 2nd-class travel, and accommodation in Moscow, Běijīng and Irkutsk.

White Nights (/fax 1800 490 5008; www.wnights.com; 610 Sierra Dr, Sacramento, CA) in the USA offers a range of trips, including Trans-Manchurian tickets for US$460 (2nd class) or US$710 (1st class) and Trans-Mongolian tickets for US$400 (2nd class) or US$710 (1st class). The company also offers visa support, and has contact addresses in Russia, Germany, Switzerland and the Netherlands.

Intours Canada (416-766 4720; fax 766 8507; www.tourussia.com; Ste 308, 2150 Bloor St West, Toronto, ON) in Canada offers tours and packages on the Trans-Siberian and Trans-Mongolian. A typical 13-day Moscow–Beijing Trans-Mongolian tour costs C$2195/C$2825 (2nd/1st class), including hotel accommodation.

The Russia Experience (020-8566 8846; www.trans-siberian.co.uk; Research House, Fraser Rd, Perivale, Middlesex) in the UK has a great choice of tickets and is in the know (it’s also the company to get in touch with for trips to Mongolia and Russia). Get full details and prices from its downloadable website brochure.

Gateway Travel (02-9745 3333; www.russian-gateway.com.au; 48 The Boulevarde, Strathfield, NSW) in Australia can arrange tickets and tours.

Travel Service Asia (07351-373 210; www.tsareisen.de, in German; Schmelzweg 10, Biberach/Ri?) in Germany offers package tours and tickets on Trans-Mongolian and Trans-Manchurian routes.

Moonsky Star Ltd (2723 1376; www.monkeyshrine.com; Flat 6, 4th fl, E block, Chungking Mansions, Nathan Rd) in Hong Kong arranges trips on the Trans-Siberian and has an informative website with a downloadable brochure. It has an info centre in Běijīng called Monkey Business (010-6591 6519; www.monkeyshrine.com; Room 35, Red House, 10 Chunxiu Lu, Chaoyang).


Sea
Hong kong
Some ships still ply the waters between Hong Kong and the mainland, but numbers and destinations have been cut back and largely travel to destinations in Guǎngdōng.

Japan
There are weekly ferries between Osaka and Shànghǎi (roughly 44 hours) and twice-monthly services between Kōbe and Shànghǎi (roughly 44 hours). Ticket prices to both destinations range from Y1300 to Y6500. Boats depart from Shànghǎi at 1pm on Saturday and arrive in Kōbe at 9.30am on Monday. Boats leaves Kōbe on Tuesday at noon and arrive in Shànghǎi at 9.30am on Thursday. Ticket prices start at Y1300.

From Tiānjīn (Tánggū), there is a weekly ferry to Kōbe in Japan (Y1540 to Y5250, 51 hours). Check in two hours before departure for international sailings. The Tianjin Jinshen Ferry Company (022-2420 5777; www.tifeco.com.cn/jinshen) operates a boat that departs from Tiānjīn at 11am on Monday and arrives in Kōbe at 2pm on Wednesday. From Kōbe, it departs at noon on Friday and arrives in Tiānjīn at 2pm on Sunday.

There are also boats from Qīngdǎo to Shimonoseki (Y1200) every two weeks.

Korea
Travelling from Korea, international ferries connect the South Korean port of Incheon with Wēihǎi, Qīngdǎo, Tiānjīn (Tánggū), Dàlián and Dāndōng.

The Weidong Ferry Company (822-3271 6710; www.weidong.com; 10th fl, 1005 Sungji Bldg, 585 Dohwa-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul) runs boats on the routes to Wēihǎi (Y750 to Y1370, three weekly in each direction) and Qīngdǎo (Y750 to Y1370, three weekly in each direction) in Shāndōng province. It can also be contacted at the International Passenger Terminal Incheon (8232-777 0490; 71-2 Hang-dong); Wēihǎi (0631-522 6173; 48 Haibin Beilu); Qīngdǎo (0532-8280 3574; 4 Xinjiang Lu). Check its website for the latest timetables and prices. Children under two years are free; children between two and 12 years get 30% discounts, while seniors over 65 years garner discounts of 20%.

In Seoul, tickets for any boats to China can be bought from the International Union Travel Agency (822-777 6722; Room 707, 7th fl, Daehan Ilbo Bldg, 340 Taepyonglo 2-ga, Chung-gu). Prices cost US$88 to US$300, and depending on the destination, boats leave anytime from once to three times weekly.

For the Tiānjīn ferry you can also get tickets in Seoul from Taeya Travel (822-514 6226), in Kangnam-gu by the Shinsa subway station. In China, tickets can be bought cheaply at the pier, or from CITS – for a very steep premium. The cheapest price is Y888 for a dorm bed.

To reach the International Passenger Terminal from Seoul, take the Seoul–Incheon commuter train (subway line 1 from the city centre) and get off at the Dongincheon station. The train journey takes 50 minutes. From Dongincheon station it’s either a 45-minute walk or five-minute taxi ride to the ferry terminal.

Incheon to Wēihǎi
There are three boat services a week between Incheon and Wēihǎi (2nd/1st class Y750/1370, 15 hours, departs Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday at 7pm from Wēihǎi). Check Weidong Ferry (www.weidong.com) for an updated schedule.

Incheon to Qīngdǎo
There are three boats a week between Qīngdǎo and Incheon (Y750 to Y1370, 15 hours, departs Monday, Wednesday and Friday). Phone or consult the website of Weidong Ferry (0532-8280 3574; www.weidong.com; 4 Xinjiang Lu) in Qīngdǎo to confirm days.

Incheon to Tiānjīn
There are two boats a week between Tiānjīn and Incheon (from Y1000, 25 hours). Boats from Incheon depart at 1pm and 9pm on Tuesday, and boats leave Tiānjīn at 11am on Thursday and Sunday. As with boats from Japan, the boat does not dock at Tiānjīn proper, but rather at the nearby port of Tánggū, where there are buses to speed you to either Tiānjīn or Běijīng. Boats to Tiānjīn are run by the Jinchon Ferry Company Seoul (822-517 8671); Incheon (8232-777 8260); Tiānjīn (022-2331 1657).

Incheon to Dàlián
A boat leaves for Incheon in South Korea at 3.30pm on Monday, Wednesday and Friday (Y850 to Y1469, 18 hours) from Dàlián; tickets can be bought at the ferry terminal. Boats leave Incheon for Dàlián at 4.30pm on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. Contact Da-In Ferry Seoul (822-3218 6551); Incheon (8232-891 7100); Dàlián (0411-8270 5082).

Incheon to Dāndōng
Three boats a week run between Dāndōng and Incheon in South Korea. Boats leave for Incheon at 3pm on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday (Y1000 to Y1900, 15 hours). Boats leave Incheon for Dāndōng at 5pm on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Contact Dandong Ferry Incheon (8232-891 3322); Dāndōng (0415-317 0081).



Land
If you’re starting in Europe or Asia, it’s possible to travel all the way to China by land. Numerous routes include the Trans-Mongolian and Trans-Manchurian Railway trek from Europe or the border crossings of China–Vietnam, Tibet–Nepal, Xīnjiāng–Pakistan, Xīnjiāng–Kyrgyzstan and Xīnjiāng–Kazakhstan.

Travel Alert: Travellers entering China by land report that Lonely Planet China guidebooks have been confiscated by border officials. The majority of these incidents have occurred at the La Cai – Hekou crossing on the Vietnam border, but other confiscations have been reported at the Lo Wu – Shenzhen crossing at the Hong Kong frontier and the Zhangmu crossing point between Nepal and Tibet. This is due to sensitivity regarding maps of China that do not include Taiwan. Travellers should consider putting a cover on the book to make it less recognisable and just to be safe, copy down any crucial details you might need while in the country. Check the Thorn Tree travel forum for good advice from travellers.

Border crossings
China shares borders with Afghanistan, Bhutan, India, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Laos, Mongolia, Myanmar, Nepal, North Korea, Pakistan, Russia, Tajikistan and Vietnam. China also has official border crossings between its special administrative regions, Hong Kong and Macau. The borders with Afghanistan, Bhutan and India are closed. If planning an extensive trip to China overland, make sure you enter China within the given time after your visa is issued. Note that some travellers, as they enter China, have had their Lonely Planet China guides confiscated by officials, primarily at the Vietnam–China border. We recommend you copy any essential details before you cross and put a cover on your guide.

Hong Kong
Hong Kong is an excellent place to enter China and there is a range of options for crossing over the border by land.

Kazakhstan
There are border crossings from ürümqi to Kazakhstan via the border post at Korgas, ālāshānkǒu, Tǎchéng and Jímǔnǎi; crossing the border shouldn’t really be a problem as long as you have a valid Kazakhstan (obtainable in Běijīng) or China visa. Apart from ālāshānkǒu, China’s rail link with Kazakhstan, all of these borders crossings are by bus, though you can generally get a bike over. Remember that borders open and close frequently due to changes in government policy; additionally, many are only open when the weather permits. It’s always best to check with the Public Security Bureau (PSB; Gōngānjú) in ürümqi for the official line, or Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree to see what other travellers are saying.

Two trains weekly also run between ürümqi and Almaty.

Kyrgyzstan
There is a weekly bus from Kashgar via Irkeshtam to Osh. Ensure you have a valid Kyrgyzstan visa (available from Běijīng or Hong Kong). From June to September it’s theoretically possible to cross the dramatic 3752m Torugart Pass on a rough road from Kashgar to Bishkek.

Laos
From the Měnglà district in China’s southern Yúnnán province it’s legal to enter Laos via Boten in Luang Nam Tha province if you possess a valid Lao visa. The good news is that you can now get an on-the-spot visa for Laos at the border, the price of which depends on your nationality (but you cannot get a China visa here). From Měnglà there are buses to Móhān every 20 minutes or so from 8am. Although the border doesn’t officially close until 5.30pm Běijīng time (and don’t forget that Laos is an hour ahead), things often wrap up earlier on the Lao side. The majority of travellers from Kūnmíng go via Jǐnghóng to Měnglà and then on to the border at Mohan (which shuts at 5.30pm). As the bus journey from Jǐnghóng will take the better part of the day, you will probably have to stay overnight at Měnglà.

Lao visas can be obtained in Běijīng; alternatively, the Lao consulate in Kūnmíng issues 15-day tourist visas (valid for two months from date of issue; visa extensions in Laos are possible).

Mongolia
As well as Trans-Mongolian Railway trains that run from Běijīng to Ulaanbaatar via Dàtóng, the K23 departs from Beijing Train Station at 7.40am every Tuesday, reaching Ulaanbaatar at 1.20pm the next day. In the other direction, the K24 departs from Ulaanbaatar every Thursday at 8.05am, reaching Běijīng the following day at 2.31pm. Two trains weekly also run between Hohhot and Ulaanbaatar.

Myanmar (Burma)
The famous Burma Road, originally built to supply the forces of Chiang Kaishek in his struggle against the Japanese, runs from Kūnmíng, in China’s Yúnnán province, to the city of Lashio. Today the road is open to travellers carrying permits for the region north of Lashio, although you can legally cross the border in only one direction – from the Chinese side (Ruìlì) into Myanmar via Muse in the northern Shan State. Land crossings from China are only possible if you join an organised tour group from a Chinese travel agency (eg Ko Wai Lin Travel in Kūnmíng or Way Thar Li Tour & Travel Company Ltd in Ruìlì), who can arrange visas and permits.

A second route, a little further northwest, from Lwaigyai to Bhamo, is also open in the same direction. You cannot legally leave Myanmar by either route.

Nepal
The 920km road connecting Lhasa with Kathmandu is known as the Friendship Hwy. It’s a spectacular trip across the Tibetan plateau, the highest point being Gyatso-la Pass (5220m). By far the most popular option for the trip is hiring a 4WD through a hotel or travel agency and then organising a private itinerary with a driver.

Visas for Nepal can be obtained in Lhasa, or even at the Nepalese border. When travelling from Nepal to Lhasa, foreigners still have to arrange transport through tour agencies in Kathmandu.

If you already have a Chinese visa, you could try turning up at the border and organising a permit in Zhāngmù, but transport out will be a problem and rules and regulations regularly change – it’s far better to join an economy tour to Lhasa in Kathmandu.

In 2005 Nepal’s state bus company Sahja Yatayat started a weekly direct bus service between Kathmandu and Lhasa. The service costs US$70 per person, plus US$60 for three nights’ accommodation and a service fee. Foreigners currently aren’t allowed to take the bus due to Chinese visa and permit hassles but this could change.

North Korea
Visas are difficult to arrange to North Korea, and at the time of writing it was impossible for US and South Korean citizens. Those interested in travelling to North Korea from Běijīng should get in touch with Nicholas Bonner or Simon Cockerell at Koryo Tours (010-6416 7544; www.koryogroup.com; Red House, 10 Chunxiu Lu, Chaoyang), who can get you there (and back).

There are five weekly flights and four international express trains (K27 and K28) between Běijīng and Pyongyang.

Pakistan
The exciting trip on the Karakoram Hwy, over the 4800m Khunjerab Pass and what is said to be the world’s highest public international highway, is an excellent way to get to or from Chinese Central Asia. There are daily buses (10am) from Kashgar for the two-day trip to Sost when the pass is open, with customs procedures conducted at Tashkurgan.

Russia
A twice-weekly train (N23 and N24, Wednesday and Saturday) connects Haerbin East train station with Vladivostok. Also see Trans-Siberian Railway for information on trains to Moscow from Běijīng. The Russian border 9km from Mǎnzhōulǐ is quite busy and reliable. Officially, the only public transport that crosses the border is the Trans-Manchurian, but there are also ample opportunities for picking up a lift in Mǎnzhōulǐ or at the border.

Tajikistan
The Kulma Pass (4362m), linking Kashgar with Murghob (via Tashkurgan), opened in 2004, with three monthly buses making the trip. At the time of writing the pass was not open to foreign travellers: go to Travel Tajikistan (www.traveltajikistan.com/roadrail/road.html) for the latest updates.

Vietnam
Travellers can enter Vietnam overland from China and exit Vietnam to China on a standard visa. You cannot obtain visas at the border, but Vietnam visas can be acquired in Běijīng or Kūnmíng. Chinese visas can be obtained in Hanoi. The Vietnam–China border crossing is open from 7am to 4pm, Vietnam time, or 8am to 5pm, China time. Set your watch when you cross the border – the time in China is one hour later than in Vietnam. There are currently two border checkpoints where foreigners are permitted to cross between Vietnam and China.

There are two weekly trains from Běijīng to Hanoi. Trains leave Beijing West Train Station at 4.16pm on Monday and Friday, arriving in Hanoi at 6.50am on Wednesday and Sunday. Trains depart from Hanoi at 6.50pm on Tuesday and Friday and arrive in Běijīng at 1.38pm on Thursday and Sunday. The train stops at Shíjiāzhuāng, Zhèngzhōu, Hànkǒu (in Wǔhàn), Wǔchāng (Wǔhàn), Chángshā, Héngyáng, Yǒngzhōu, Guìlín North, Guìlín, Liǔzhōu, Nánníng and Píngxiáng.

Friendship pass
The busiest border crossing is at the Vietnamese town of Dong Dang, an obscure town (nearest city is Lang Son 18km to the south) 164km northeast of Hanoi. The closest Chinese town to the border is Píngxiáng in Guǎngxī province, but it’s about 10km north of the actual border gate. The only place in Guǎngxī where foreigners can cross is Friendship Pass, known as Huu Nghi Quan in Vietnamese or Yǒuyì Guān in Chinese. Buses and minibuses on the Hanoi–Lang Son route are frequent.

Píngxiáng is connected by train to Nánníng, capital of China’s Guǎngxī province, 220km away. Train 5518 to Nánníng departs from Píngxiáng at 2.40pm, arriving in Nánníng at 6.36pm. In the other direction, train 5517 departs from Nánníng at 7.58am, arriving in Píngxiáng at 11.40am. There are more frequent buses (once every 30 minutes), which take four hours to make the journey and cost US$4.

A word of caution – because train tickets to China are expensive in Hanoi, some travellers buy a ticket to Dong Dang, walk across the border and then buy a train ticket on the Chinese side. This isn’t the best way because it’s several kilometres from Dong Dang to Friendship Pass, and you’ll have to hire someone to take you by motorbike. If you’re going by train, it’s best to buy a ticket from Hanoi to Píngxiáng, and then in Píngxiáng buy a ticket to Nánníng or beyond.

From Nánníng, there’s a daily Hanoi-bound bus (Y110, 10 hours, 8am) that runs to the Friendship Pass, after which you can cross into Vietnam on foot and board a Vietnamese bus to Hanoi.

Lao cai–Hékǒu
A 762km metre-gauge railway, inaugurated in 1910, links Hanoi with Kūnmíng, although at the time of writing the twice-weekly international train service had been suspended due to floods and landslide damage. The border town on the Vietnamese side is Lao Cai, 294km from Hanoi. On the Chinese side, the border town is Hékǒu, 468km from Kūnmíng.

When operational, domestic trains run daily on both sides of the border. On the Chinese side, Kūnmíng–Hékǒu takes about 16 hours.

Mong cai–Dōngxīng
Vietnam’s third, but little known, border crossing is at Mong Cai in the northeast corner of the country, just opposite the Chinese city of Dōngxīng.

Trans-Siberian railway
The Trans-Siberian Railway and connecting routes comprise one of the most famous, romantic and potentially enjoyable of the world’s great train journeys. Rolling out of Europe and into Asia, through eight time zones and over 9289km of taiga, steppe and desert, the Trans-Siberian makes all other train rides seem like once around the block with Thomas the Tank Engine.

There is some confusion here as there are, in fact, three railways. The ‘true’ Trans-Siberian line runs from Moscow to Vladivostok. But the routes traditionally referred to as the Trans-Siberian Railway are the two branches that veer off the main line in eastern Siberia to make a beeline for Běijīng.

Since the first option excludes China, most readers will be making the decision between the Trans-Manchurian and the Trans-Mongolian; however, it makes little difference. The Trans-Mongolian (Běijīng to Moscow, 7865km) is faster, but requires you to purchase an additional visa and endure another border crossing, although you do at least get to see the Mongolian countryside roll past your window. The Trans-Manchurian is longer (Běijīng to Moscow, 9025km). A useful source of information on the Trans-Siberian Railway can be found at www.seat61.com/Trans-Siberian.htm.

Trans-Mongolian railway
Train K3 leaves Běijīng on its five-day journey at 7.40am every Wednesday (arriving in Moscow on the following Monday at 2.19pm), passes through Dàtóng and travels to the Mongolian border at Erenhot, 842km from Běijīng. The train continues to Ulaanbaatar before reaching the last stop in Mongolia, Sukhe Bator. From Moscow, train K4 leaves at 10.03pm on Tuesdays, arriving in Běijīng on the following Monday at 2.31pm. Departure and arrival times may fluctuate slightly.

The train offers deluxe two-berth compartments (with shared shower), 1st-class four-berth compartments and 2nd-class four-berth compartments. Fares start at around US$253 one way in 2nd class or US$418 in 1st class.

Trans-Manchurian railway
Departing from Běijīng at 10.56pm Saturday (arriving in Moscow the following Friday at 5.55pm), train K19 travels through Tiānjīn, Shānhǎiguān, Shěnyáng, Chángchūn and Hāěrbīn before arriving at the border post Mǎnzhōulǐ, 2347km from Běijīng. Zabaykal’sk is the Russian border post and the train continues from here to Tarskaya, where it connects with the Trans-Siberian line. Train K20 leaves Moscow at 11.58pm every Friday, arriving in Běijīng on the following Friday at 5.20am. Note that departure and arrival times may fluctuate slightly.

Trains have 1st-class two-berth compartments and 2nd-class four-berth compartments, with prices similar to the Trans-Mongolian Railway.

Visas
Travellers will need Russian and Mongolian visas if they take the Trans-Mongolian Railway, as well as a Chinese visa. These can often be arranged along with your ticket by travel agents such as China International Travel Service (CITS, Zhōngguó Guójì Lǚxíngshè). Mongolian visas come as two-day transit visas (three-day process US$30, express process US$60) or 90-day tourist visas (three-day process US$40, express process US$60). A transit visa is easy enough to get (just present a through ticket and a visa for your onward destination). The situation regarding visas changes regularly, so check with a Mongolian embassy or consulate. All Mongolian embassies shut down for the week of National Day (Naadam), which officially falls around 11 to 13 July.

Russian transit visas (one-week process US$50, three-day process US$80, one-day process US$120) are valid for 10 days if you take the train, and will only give you three or four days in Moscow at the end of your journey. You will need one photo, your passport and the exact amount in US dollars. For a transit visa, you will also need a valid entry visa for a third country plus a through ticket from Russia to the third country.



Entering the destination
Entering the country
There are no particular difficulties for travellers entering China. The main requirement is a passport (valid for travel for six months after the expiry date of your visa) and a visa. As a general rule, visas cannot be obtained at the border. At the time of writing visas were not required for most Western nationals to visit Hong Kong or Macau and some visa-free transits exist. Chinese Immigration officers are scrupulous and, by definition, highly bureaucratic, but not difficult or overly officious. Travellers arriving in China will be given a health declaration form and an arrivals form to complete.



Air
Airports & airlines
Hong Kong, Běijīng and Shànghǎi are China’s main international air gateways. Hong Kong International Airport (HKG;0852-2181 0000; www.hkairport.com) is located at Chek Lap Kok on Lantau Island in the west of the territory. Běijīng’s Capital airport (PEK; arrivals & departures 010-6454 1100) has benefited from considerable investment and new terminals. Shànghǎi has two airports: Hongqiao airport (SHA;021-6268 8899/3659) in the west of the city and Pudong airport (PVG;021-6834 1000, flight information 021-6834 6912) in the east.

The best direct ticket deals are available from China’s international carriers, such as China Eastern. Air China, China’s national flag carrier, has a good safety record, and to date it has only had one fatal crash (in 2002). Air China should not be confused with China Airlines, the crash-prone Taiwan carrier.